What Works and What Doesn’t for Bat Problems

What Works and What Doesn’t for Bat Problems

When homeowners find bats in the attic, walls, basement, bedroom, or living space, they start looking for a quick fix.

Homeowner thinking about cheap bat solutions like a bat house, sonic noisemaker, mothballs, and sealing a few holes
Many homeowners first think about cheap fixes like bat houses, sonic noisemakers, mothballs, or sealing a few holes. Unfortunately, these shortcuts do not solve a real bat problem.

I know what your thinking…..

I have been doing bat control work for 38 years, spoken with tens of thousands of homeowners, and worked on thousands of residential bat problems.

I know that almost every homeowner will initially consider the same five or six cheaper, simpler ways they might be able to fix the problem themselves.

Bat houses, sonic devices, mothballs, sprays, sealing a few holes, or hoping the bats will leave on their own all sound tempting when the proper solution costs real money.

The article below explains what actually works, what does not work, and why complete bat exclusion and bat-proofing are the only reliable way to solve a bat problem.

Homeowners Want A Simple & Cheap Solution.

And they almost always try one of these inexpensive, simple solutions before hiring a specialist. When faced with the cost of properly done bat control work, it is completely understandable that people first gamble on cheaper products, shortcuts, and quick fixes.

The manufacturers of these products know homeowners want an easy answer, which is why millions of dollars are wasted every year on useless bat-control products sold to people desperate for a cheaper solution. Unfortunately, all those cheap bat-control products and cures are garbage.

Over the years, almost every client who calls me has already wasted money on these trash cures first. They have put up bat houses, plugged in sonic noise makers, dumped mothballs in the attic, sprayed repellents, sealed random holes, or hired local wildlife companies that promised a quick and inexpensive fix.

None of those things solved the problem.

Box of mothballs and bottle of bat repellent sitting in a garbage can
Mothballs and bat repellent belong in the garbage, not in your bat control plan. Neither one solves a structural bat problem.
Homeowner watching a bat house burn after realizing it will not remove bats from the house
Bat houses do not make bats move out of your attic, walls, soffits, or chimney. If bats are living in the house, the structure must be excluded and bat-proofed.
Angry homeowner about to smash a useless sonic bat repeller labeled as a scam
Sonic bat repellers are a waste of money. They do not remove bats, seal entry points, or fix the structural problem.

The bats were still using the structure because the house still had openings. Until the bats are properly excluded and the home is properly bat-proofed, the problem remains.


However, There is Only One Cure That Actually Works

Bat control specialist sealing a large soffit gap beneath the roof overhang to prevent bats from entering the attic.
1. Bat-proof the house
Custom excluder installed over bat entry/exit point near bradford ontario - [ ] By Bat Control Specialists Canadas No1 bat control and bat removal company.
2. Humanely exclude the bats

Bat-proofing means sealing, screening, flashing, or otherwise protecting the vulnerable areas of the structure so bats cannot continue using the house.

Bat exclusion means allowing the bats to leave through properly installed one-way devices so they cannot re-enter.

One without the other is not enough.

An excluder may get bats out of one opening, but if the rest of the house is still full of gaps, the bats can simply move to another area. Sealing gaps without proper exclusion can trap bats inside the structure and make the problem worse.

It has to be done at the same time.


But First Lets Talk About What Doesn’t Work

1. Find and seal the spot where they are getting in.

Homeowner spraying a bottle labeled bat repellent at a bat flying inside the living room
How hard can it be?

The Myth of Finding “The One Spot”

Many homeowners who call me think bat control is much simpler than it really is. They assume all we have to do is find the one spot where the bats are getting in, put an excluder over that opening, maybe seal a few other obvious gaps, and the problem will be fixed.

That is exactly why people buy cheap plastic bat excluders online. They think, “If I can just figure out where the bats are getting in, I can put this one-way door over the hole and solve the problem myself.”

Unfortunately, that is wishful thinking.

Residential bat problems are never that simple.

Big brown bats, our most common species in Ontario homes, are highly transient. They often live in small colonies and move back and forth among several houses in the same neighbourhood. Finding the exact opening they are using can be extremely difficult. Homeowners regularly do night watches and never see the bats come out. Even when bats are using a house, they may not exit in an obvious way, at an obvious time, or from an area that can be seen from the ground.

And even if you do get lucky and find the main entry point, putting one excluder over that spot does not mean the house is bat-proofed.

All houses have many other gaps bats can use. Some are around soffits, fascia, chimneys, vents, siding, flashing, roof edges, trim, and roof intersections. Many are hidden, high up, tucked behind materials, or impossible to see from the ground. If the bats are excluded from one opening but the rest of the structure remains vulnerable, they can simply move to another gap.

Arrows pointing to common gaps on a house where bats may enter, including ridge vents, chimney tops, soffit gaps, siding gaps, roof intersections, and missing drip edge.
Where do you start? Illustration showing common bat entry points on a house.

Seal a couple openings and pray?

At that point, the homeowner is playing bat-control whack-a-mole.

Seal one spot, and they move to another. Cover one opening, and they find the next weakness. The problem continues because the house was never properly inspected, excluded, and bat-proofed as a complete structure.

Real bat control is not about guessing at one hole and hoping for the best. It is about understanding how bats use the entire house, identifying the active and potential entry points, excluding the bats safely, and bat-proofing the structure so they cannot keep coming back.

When we are called in to fix the work of other companies, we usually find the same problem every time. Someone sealed a few obvious holes, maybe installed an excluder, and assumed that would be enough to fix the bat problem.

When it did not work, some came back and made an even bigger mess. Most simply bailed and left the homeowner with the same bat problem they had before.

The issue is always the same: the house was never properly inspected and bat-proofed correctly. The secondary gaps and potential entry points were ignored or missed, and if excluders were installed at all, they were often dumb, dangerous, badly made excluders installed in the wrong places.

Some gaps sealed with caulking while other bat entry gaps were missed
This photo shows why simply caulking a few obvious gaps is not complete bat-proofing. The soffit line was sealed, but other nearby gaps were missed which will allow bats back in.

2. Bat Houses

Homeowner pointing to bats in the attic and a bat house on a tree, thinking the bats will move out of the house
What wishful thinking looks like

If only they worked.

Bat houses will not remove bats from your attic, walls, soffits, chimney, basement, or living space.

A bat house may sound like a nice idea, but it is not a solution to a bat problem inside a home.

Bats will not move out of a warm, protected, familiar structure just because someone puts a small box on a pole or tree nearby. If bats are already using your house, your house is the roost they chose.

Putting up a bat house does not seal the entry points. It does not exclude the bats. It does not stop bats from getting into the attic or walls. It does not stop them from showing up inside bedrooms, basements, bathrooms, or living rooms.

A bat house is not bat control.

Confused bat looking at a bat house that will not solve a bat problem inside a home
Do some bat species use bat-houses? Yes.
Will they magically move out of your attic if you put one up? Heck no.

Your house is the bat-house.

Bottom line, bats don’t know what a bat-house is, its not an upgrade for them.

Will they use it at all? Maybe. But In my experience, that almost never happens. Very rarely do we find bat houses put up by customers that are actually being used by bats. Even when bats do use them, it is usually only occasional or periodic, much like bats may temporarily hang behind shutters, loose flashing, trim gaps, or other sheltered spots around a house. Most of the time, the bat houses our customers put up are never used at all.

And bats they won’t choose it over your home. If someone tells you they can cure your bat problem by selling you a bat-house, they are a crook or very misinformed.

Comparison image of a bat house beside a regular house with text asking which house a bat would choose
A bat house may sound like a solution, but if bats are already living in your home, most will choose the house over the bat house. Bats in homes need proper exclusion and bat-proofing.



What Doesn’t Work

3. Sonic Noise Makers

Plug-in ultrasonic pest control device with message that it does not bat-proof your house
Plug-in ultrasonic devices do not bat-proof a house. They do not seal entry points, remove bats properly, or stop bats from using hidden openings in the structure.

Sonic and ultrasonic bat repellers are a scam.

There is not much else to say other than they are sold to homeowners who are desperate for an easy answer, but they do not fix bat problems. If sonic devices worked, professional bat specialists would not be needed. We are needed because they do not solve the problem.

A noise maker does not seal a soffit gap. It does not protect a chimney. It does not close a roof edge. It does not repair a vent. It does not stop bats from moving through walls, attics, or hidden spaces.

The bats may ignore it, move temporarily, or shift to another area of the structure. But as long as there are places the bats can get into the house, the bats will remain.


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What Doesn’t Work

4. Mothballs

Mothballs do not solve bat problems.

They are not a bat control method, and they do not make bats permanently leave a structure. Even if a strong smell bothers bats temporarily, it does not close the openings they are using.

The house remains vulnerable.

Mothballs can also create unpleasant odours inside the home, especially in attics, walls, basements, and enclosed spaces. Instead of solving the bat problem, homeowners may end up with both bats and a chemical smell.

Warning sign in attic saying do not use mothballs for bats
Mistake! Do not pour mothballs into your attic to drive out bats.
Homeowners covering their noses after mothball fumes from the attic make the house smell unbearable
Mothballs do not solve bat problems. Using large amounts of mothballs in an attic can leave the whole house smelling terrible while the bats and entry points remain.
Guess what happens if you pour lots of mothballs into the attic?

Over the years, I have had several clients try to drive bats out of their attic by dumping large amounts of mothballs into their attics. It did not drive the bats out. It drove the homeowners out.

The smell became so strong that they could not live in the house, and they then had to pay someone in protective gear to remove all the mothballs before they could move back in.

Meanwhile, the bats simply moved down into the walls and hid from the stench. Mothballs do not solve bat problems. They just create a second problem.


What Doesn’t Work

5. Spray Repellents

Homeowner spraying a bottle labeled bat repellent at a bat flying inside the living room
Spray repellents do not solve bat problems. If a bat is flying inside your living space, the real issue is usually that bats are already using the structure.

Spray repellents do not fix bat problems.

You can spray a product into an attic, but most bats in houses are not simply hanging out in the open attic space waiting to be sprayed. They use attic areas as night-roosting spots and as a toilet, while their real roosting areas are usually hidden in inaccessible places such as wall cavities, soffits, gaps between floors, and other concealed structural spaces.

There is no practical way to spray repellent into every wall cavity, floor space, soffit void, and hidden area where bats may be living. Spraying around an opening will not stop them either. Bats enter and exit buildings quickly, and spraying something on the outside of the house is a waste of time and money.

Spray repellents are just another useless shortcut. They do not fix the real problem..

A spray cannot stop bats from using a structural opening. It cannot protect a roofline, chimney, soffit, siding gap, vent, or wall cavity. It cannot prevent bats from returning to a known roosting area if the house remains open.

Repellent sprays may make the homeowner feel like something has been done, but the actual problem remains unchanged.

The bats are using the structure because the structure gives them access, shelter, and protection.

Sprays do not close bat entry points. The structure still has to be repaired and bat-proofed.

The structure must be fixed.

Spray bottle labeled bat repellent shown as a fake solution for bats in a house
Spray repellents do not solve bat problems in homes. They do not remove bats properly, seal entry points, or bat-proof a house.

What Doesn’t Work

6. Bright Lights

Bright lights in an unfinished attic showing that lights do not deter bats from a house
Bright lights in an attic will not solve a bat problem. Bats may avoid the light briefly, but lights do not seal entry points, remove the colony, or bat-proof the house.

Bright lights are sometimes suggested for bat problems, but they are not a real solution.

Bats may avoid a brightly lit area temporarily, but they can often shift deeper into the structure, move to another part of the attic, or continue using hidden wall and soffit spaces.

Lights do not exclude bats. Lights do not seal gaps. Lights do not bat-proof a house.

If bats are using your home, the access points still need to be found and fixed.

Lights may disturb bats temporarily, but they do not solve the structural problem.


What Doesn’t Work


7. What Doesn’t Work: Denial

Woman standing in her living room with eyes shut and fingers in her ears while a bat flies around her head
Ignoring a bat problem does not make it go away.

Ignoring a bat problem does not make it go away.

Most residential bat colonies are small and transient. You can go years without any showing up inside your home. Even though they are still living in your walls and attic. You may then get a bunch inside in a short period of time. Why? Populations go up and down. They may move to another house for a while. They come back. They definitely won’t show up inside every day. But one will show up eventually.

As long as the structure remains open, the problem will continue.

And bat problems involving little brown bats will definitely become worse over time because, they tend to form large colonies and return to the same houses each spring. Local little browns usually start out by scouting and exploring your house and it grows from there.

Hoping the bats will leave on their own is not a plan.

If bats are using the house, the house needs to be inspected.

A small bat problem is still a bat problem and may grow larger if the structure remains open.

Bat droppings found on the ground outside an Ontario home below a possible bat roosting area.
Denial of evidence doesn’t make the bats go away.
Big brown bat found inside an Ontario home near the ceiling
Not a fluke! A big brown bat found inside an Ontario home. When a bat appears in the living space, it came out of your walls, not through an open door or window.



What Does Work?

Only One Thing Works. Batproofing & Bat Exclusion


Part 1. Proper Bat Exclusion

Proper bat exclusion uses one-way exits that allow bats to leave the structure safely.

Aluminum bat excluder installed on a Collingwood Ontario home by Bat Control Specialists
Custom aluminum bat excluder installed on a Collingwood, Ontario home by Bat Control Specialists. The excluder allows bats to leave safely while preventing them from getting back inside.
Custom bat excluder installed under a roof valley on a metal roof to allow bats to exit but prevent re-entry
Bat excluder installed under a roof valley on a metal roof. This one-way device allows bats to leave safely while preventing them from getting back into the structure.
Custom aluminum bat excluder installed at a chimney bat entry point during a professional bat removal and bat-proofing project. The one-way device allows bats to leave safely while preventing them from re-entering the home.
custom aluminum bat excluder installed over a bat entry/exit point on the base of a chimney of a london ontario area home

The goal is not to trap, poison, scare, or kill the bats. The goal is to let them exit naturally and prevent them from getting back through the same opening.

A proper bat exclusion should include:

  • Finding the active entry points
  • Figure out what species you are dealing with
  • Preventively bat-proof the rest of the house before installing excluders
  • Install the right number of excluders in the right places
  • Allow enough time for bats to leave
  • Avoiding exclusion during unsafe times when flightless young may be present

Photo of an active bat entry/exit point.

before photo of a Bat entry & exit point in the fascia board of a bradford ontario home- [ ] By Bat Control Specialists Canadas No1 bat control and bat removal company.
Before photo showing an opening bats were using to enter the house. Custom sheet-metal drip edge flashings have been installed on each side to prevent against further rot and protect the roof edge long term.

Photo of a correctly installed aluminum bat excluder.

Custom bat excluder installed over a roof edge opening to let bats exit safely but prevent re-entry
After photo showing a custom bat excluder installed over the roof edge opening bats were using. The excluder extends beyond the gutter and angles downward so bats can escape easily, but cannot get back inside.

Quality

Custom color-matched aluminum bat excluder that lets bats leave safely but prevents re-entry
Custom aluminum bat excluder designed by Bat Control Specialists. These laser-cut excluders allow bats to leave safely, prevent re-entry, and are more durable than cheap mesh or plastic excluders.

Ready for action

Custom color-matched aluminum bat excluder set in place over a soffit gap to let bats exit safely
Custom aluminum bat excluder set in place and ready for use. These color-matched excluders allow bats to leave safely, prevent re-entry, and do not deteriorate like cheap plastic or mesh excluders.

A cheap excluder slapped over one obvious hole is not a proper bat job.

Cheap plastic bat excluder installed over a large opening that may fail to properly exclude bats
This cheap plastic-style bat excluder has been installed over a large opening. Poorly fitted excluders like this are typical of non-specialist bat work and often fail to safely and effectively exclude bats.
Plastic bat excluder chewed through by mice, allowing bats to get back into the house
This plastic bat excluder was chewed through and destroyed by mice, allowing bats to get back into the structure. Cheap plastic excluders are not a reliable long-term bat control solution.

What Works: Part 2. Permanent Bat-Proofing

Bat-proofing is what keeps the bats from coming back.

Most bat problems are structural. Bats are using gaps around soffits, fascia, chimneys, vents, siding, flashing, roof intersections, roof edges, brickwork, or other parts of the house.

Technician installing custom drip edge at the roof edge while working from the top of a ladder on a multi-level home.
Installing drip edge on an existing roof can be difficult and time-consuming, especially when the work has to be done from the top of a ladder beneath finished shingles.
bat-proofing work inside a cottage porch in whitelake ontario - [ ] By Bat Control Specialists Canadas No1 bat control and bat removal company.
Large gaps where soffits meet siding and trim are common bat entry points. These openings are being professionally sealed as part of a permanent bat-proofing project.
Bat-proofing caulk work sealing a roof edge gap near the gutter to prevent bat entry
Bat-proofing caulk work being completed along a roof edge and gutter area. Small gaps around shingles, flashing, fascia, and gutters can allow bats into hidden structural spaces if they are not properly sealed.
Bat Control Specialists technician doing bat-proofing work from a ladder at the top of a house
Bat-proofing work being completed high on the roofline. Many bat entry points are located around upper soffits, fascia, vents, trim, and roof edges where they cannot be seen clearly from the ground.

Those areas have to be protected properly.

Bat-proofing involves:

  • Using correct caulking and sealants
  • Screening and modifying vents
  • Sealing soffit and fascia gaps
  • Protecting chimney areas
  • Installing custom flashing
  • Repairing vulnerable roof edges
  • Closing gaps around siding, trim, brick, and vents
  • Protecting roof intersections and hidden openings
Arrows pointing to common gaps on a house where bats may enter, including ridge vents, chimney tops, soffit gaps, siding gaps, roof intersections, and missing drip edge.
Illustration showing common bat entry points on a house, including gaps in soffits, roof intersections, vents, chimney flashings, siding, and other openings bats may use to get inside.

Proper bat-proofing is not just “filling one hole.”

It requires understanding bats, houses, construction materials, weather exposure, rooflines, siding, brickwork, soffits, fascia, flashing, and how different parts of the structure fit together.

Proper exclusion and bat-proofing are the only reliable ways to stop bats from using a house.

Before and After: What Actually Fixes the Problem

Before and after photos are one of the best ways to show the difference between temporary gimmicks and proper bat-proofing.

Before

Before we did work photos

Large gap between the soffit and brick wall on an Ontario home. The rough-faced brick prevents the soffit trim from fitting tightly against the wall, creating a bat entry point.
The irregular surface of the brick prevents the soffit trim from sealing tightly against the wall, creating a gap large enough for bats to enter the home.

After photos of repairs by bat control specialists

Beige caulking sealing a soffit and brick gap to prevent bats from entering a home
Caption:
A caulking bead is applied along the soffit and brick joint to seal a potential bat entry point.
Open roof edge gap before being sealed by Bat Control Specialists to prevent bat entry
Before photo of an open roof edge gap that bats can use to enter the structure. This area still needs to be sealed and bat-proofed by Bat Control Specialists.
Potential bat entry gap sealed with caulking by Bat Control Specialists
After photo showing a potential bat entry opening sealed with caulking by Bat Control Specialists. Small roofline and fascia gaps like this can allow bats into hidden structural spaces if they are left open.
Deteriorating wooden soffit and bird box framing that could become future bat entry points
Before photo of deteriorating wooden soffit and bird box framing. Rotting wood like this can open up over time and create future bat entry points if it is not repaired and protected.
Custom metal flashing installed over rotted fascia soffit and siding to keep bats and rain out
Custom metal flashing can be installed over rotted fascia, soffits, or siding to close bat entry gaps and help keep rain out of damaged areas.

Before

Deteriorating chimney cap with open flue that can allow bats, rats, and other animals to enter
Before photo of a unused, deteriorating chimney with failing concrete around a metal factory chimney liner and an open flue cap. Open chimney areas like this can allow bats, rats, birds, squirrels, and other animals into the structure.

After

Repaired chimney cap sealed to keep bats and other animals out of an Ontario home
After photo of a repaired chimney with the open flue and deteriorating cap sealed off to help keep out bats, rats, birds, squirrels, and other wildlife.
Before photo of soffit and shingle intersection where bats are getting into the house
Before photo showing a soffit and shingle intersection where bats were getting into the structure. These roofline corners often hide small gaps that are easy to miss from the ground.
Custom flashing installed at soffit and shingle intersection to block bats before final sealing
Custom flashing installed at this soffit and shingle intersection to block bat access.
Custom metal flashing being screwed in place at a soffit and shingle intersection to prevent bat entry
Custom flashing being screwed into place The area is now ready for final caulking and sealing to complete the bat-proofing work.
Custom soffit flashing installed on a roof with seams sealed using pure roof silicone for bat-proofing
Custom soffit flashing installed and sealed with pure roof silicone. Proper bat-proofing requires durable materials, correct flashing, and the right sealant for roof surfaces.
Metal roof ridge cap removed to reveal a large gap beneath the roof peak. Openings like these can allow bats to enter attic spaces.
Removing the ridge cap reveals a large hidden gap along the roof peak. Openings like these commonly allow bats to enter attic spaces unless properly screened and bat-proofed.
Custom aluminum flashing, bat-proof screening, and decorative ridge cap installed on a metal roof ridge vent to prevent bats from entering the attic while maintaining ventilation.
Custom aluminum flashing and bat-proof screening installed beneath a decorative metal ridge cap to permanently prevent bats from entering through the ridge vent while maintaining proper attic ventilation.
First row of shingles lifted to show missing drip edge flashing and exposed roof decking along the roof edge.
Before repair: this roof edge had no drip edge installed beneath the first row of shingles. The exposed roof decking was left vulnerable to water intrusion, deterioration, and hidden gaps along the roof perimeter.
Custom-fabricated drip edge installed beneath the first row of shingles to seal a hidden roof-edge gap.
Custom drip edge retrofitted beneath the first row of shingles to close a concealed roof-edge opening and protect the roof decking from water damage.

Unprotected

Unprotected plastic roof vents that may allow bats and other animals into an Ontario home
Before photo of unprotected plastic roof vents. Roof vents like these can become entry points for bats, birds, squirrels, mice, and other wildlife if they are not properly screened or protected.

Protected

Bat-proof box screen installed over a black plastic roof vent on an Ontario home
After photo of a custom bat-proof box screen installed over a plastic roof vent. The screen protects the vent from bats and other wildlife while still allowing proper attic ventilation.

Broken

Open chimney flue and severely cracked chimney crown on an Ontario home. Uncapped chimneys can allow bats and other wildlife to enter the structure.
An uncapped chimney flue and deteriorated chimney crown. Chimneys in this condition can provide access for bats, birds, squirrels, and other wildlife.

Fixed

Custom metal chimney pan installed over repaired chimney to keep bats and other animals out
After photo of a repaired chimney with broken tiles and bricks removed and a custom metal pan installed over the top. This seals the chimney area and helps keep out bats, birds, squirrels, raccoons, and other wildlife.

Wrong

One-inch mesh installed over roof vent that is too large to keep bats out
This one-inch by one-inch mesh is too large for bat-proofing. Bats can squeeze through openings much smaller than most people expect, so roof vents need properly sized screening to keep bats out.

Right

Properly sized half-inch mesh box screen installed over roof vent to keep bats out
This roof vent is protected with a properly sized box screen made from half-inch square mesh. Unlike larger mesh, half-inch screening is small enough to keep bats out while still allowing roof ventilation.

Unscreened

Bat droppings on exterior gas fireplace vent showing possible bat activity
Bat droppings found on top of an exterior gas fireplace vent. Gaps around vents can allow bats to enter walls, fireplaces, or hidden cavities in the home.

Screened

Gas fireplace vent protected with custom half-inch screening to prevent bats from entering or roosting inside the vent assembly.
Custom half-inch wildlife screen installed over a gas fireplace vent. The screening prevents bats from accessing the vent while maintaining proper airflow and safe fireplace operation.

Uncaulked

Broken caulking and open gap between chimney bricks and flashing that can allow bats into a home
Broken caulking between the chimney brick and flashing has left an open gap that bats can use to enter the structure. Chimney flashing areas are common bat entry points when old sealant cracks, shrinks, or pulls away.

Caulked

Chimney flashing gap sealed with pure roof silicone to keep bats out
After photo showing the gap between the chimney brick and flashing sealed with pure roof silicone to prevent bats from entering the structure.

They enter here

Water Heater Vent Opening That Can Allow Bats Into Basement
Standard B-vent chimney caps are often not bat-proof. Bats can enter the vent, travel down the metal chimney, and eventually come out in the basement through dilution air openings on gas equipment.

They exit here

Open gap around water heater vent that can allow bats to enter the basement through the metal chimney vent
Open gap around water heater vent that can allow bats to enter the basement through the metal chimney vent

This stops them

Quarter-inch mesh screen installed on B-vent chimney cap to keep bats out of the metal vent
Quarter-inch mesh has been screwed and caulked into place on this standard B-vent chimney cap to prevent bats from squeezing through the openings and travelling down the metal vent into the basement.

Missing flashing

Small section of missing drip edge at roof corner that can allow bats into the house
A small missing piece of drip edge at the corner of a house can leave an opening large enough for bats to enter behind the fascia and roof edge.

Replaced

Custom drip edge piece installed at roof corner to close bat entry gap
After photo showing a custom drip edge repair installed at the roof corner to close the gap and help prevent bats from entering behind the roof edge and fascia.


Loose sidewall vent with gap where bats were entering the home
This loose sidewall vent left an opening along the side where bats were able to enter the structure. Exterior vents must be properly fitted, sealed, and screened to prevent bat access.
Large buildup of bat droppings inside wall cavity behind a loose sidewall vent
After the loose sidewall vent was removed, a large buildup of bat droppings was found inside the wall cavity. This shows how bats can use exterior vent gaps to enter hidden spaces inside the structure.
Bat-proof box screen installed over sidewall vent to keep bats out
After photo of a bat-proof box screen installed over a loose sidewall vent. The screen protects the vent from bats while still allowing the vent to function.

Bat control is not about gadgets or repellents. It is about finding the entry points, excluding the bats safely, and bat-proofing the structure.

Bat house, mothballs, bat repellent, and sonic noisemaker thrown in a garbage can
Bat houses, mothballs, spray repellents, and sonic noisemakers belong in the garbage, not in your bat control plan. None of them solve a structural bat problem.
Bat excluder being installed by Bat Control Specialists on a soffit gap to let bats leave safely
Bat excluder being installed by Bat Control Specialists over a soffit gap. Properly placed excluders allow bats to leave safely while preventing them from getting back inside.
Gap below window and roof flashing being sealed to prevent bats from entering the structure
After photo showing a roof flashing gap below a window being sealed as part of bat-proofing work. Small gaps around flashing, brick, windows, and roof intersections can allow bats into hidden structural spaces.

Why Gimmicks Keep Getting Sold

Gimmicks sell because homeowners want an easy solution.

A plug-in device, spray bottle, box, smell, or simple trick sounds much easier than inspecting and bat-proofing a house. Unfortunately, bats are not using the house because of a smell or a sound. They are using it because the structure gives them access to shelter.

Until that access is fixed, the problem remains.

That is why real bat control is a structural job.


The Correct Order for Bat Control

A proper bat control job should follow the right order:

  1. Inspect the structure.
  2. Find the active entry points.
  3. Identify vulnerable secondary gaps.
  4. Bat-proof the structure so they cannot return.
  5. Install humane bat excluders where needed.
  6. Allow the bats to leave safely.

This is what works.

Everything else is a distraction.


Need a Bat Problem Fixed Properly?

If you have bats in your attic, walls, basement, bedroom, or living space, do not waste time and money on bat houses, sonic devices, mothballs, sprays, or wishful thinking.

The only reliable solution is proper bat exclusion and permanent bat-proofing.

Bat Control Specialists inspect the structure, identify how bats are getting in, exclude them safely, and bat-proof the areas they are using.

For A Free Estimate

Fast, humane, guaranteed bat removal. Serving London and the surrounding area