Complete Bat-Proofing | Bat Removal That Actually Works

First of All ,There is No Such Thing As A Cheap Simple Cure For A Bat Problem!

Frustrated homeowners throwing a tantrum while a little brown bat flies inside their living room
I hear ya. But it don’t exist.

There is only one thing that actually works and we call it…

Complete Bat-Proofing | Bat Removal That Actually Works

How Complete Bat-Proofing Works

Bat control technician wearing a dust mask and sealing a soffit-to-brick gap with beige exterior caulking
You bat-proof the house
Custom bat excluder positioned over the main soffit-to-brick entry point before caulking
And humanely exclude the bats.


There is only one reliable way to solve a residential bat problem: completely bat-proof the house and then humanely exclude the bats.

Nothing else works because nothing else fixes the underlying gaps in the structure that bats use to enter houses.

Unfortunately There Are Lots Of Crooks Looking To Sell You Garbage That Won’t Work!

Bat houses do not remove bats from walls or attics. Ultrasonic devices, mothballs, lights, sprays and other repellents are useless. Installing a one-way device over one opening without sealing the rest of the house is also a waste of time.

Man with a bullhorn pointing at a bat house beside his home, illustrating that bats will not move out of a house into a bat house.
Bat houses do not remove bats from homes. If bats are already using your house, they will not simply move into a bat house instead.
Humorous bat control cartoon showing a homeowner holding a bat house while a bat technician explains that the real bat house is the homeowner’s house.
Bat control technician wearing a dust mask and sealing a soffit-to-brick gap with beige exterior caulking
A Bat Control Specialists technician applies colour-matched exterior sealant where the soffit meets the brickwork as part of complete bat-proofing.
Pouring mothballs in the attic may seem like a good idea, but mothballs do not solve bat problems. If bats are living in an attic, the home needs proper inspection, humane exclusion, and complete bat-proofing.
Homeowner running out of a house overwhelmed by mothball fumes after trying to use mothballs for bat control.
Mothballs, sonic repeller, bat repellent spray, and bat house shown as common cheap cures homeowners try for bat problems.
Useless Junk And Scams
Bat house, mothballs, bat repellent, and sonic noisemaker thrown in a garbage can
Where it all belongs.

Sometimes You Have To Learn All This The Hard Way.

Look, by all means try all the junk and scam devices sold online. You are only wasting a few hundred bucks and bluntly many homeowners have to get ripped off a few times before they realize there really is no magic bullet for this.

I know I know… But Now That You Tried Everything Else, I Can Now Show You What Will Work.

Benjamin Vaughan dressed as a professor pointing to a chalkboard that says Step 1 bat-proof the house
Professor Ben explains the first step in proper bat removal: bat-proof the house before excluding the bats.
Benjamin Vaughan dressed as a professor pointing to a chalkboard that says Step 2 humanely exclude the bats
After the house is bat-proofed, the active entry points are fitted with excluders so bats can leave safely without getting back in.
Benjamin Vaughan holding a blue sausage caulking gun and a custom black aluminum bat excluder
Custom metal bat excluder installed at a soffit and shingle entry point with surrounding seams sealed using clear silicone.
Custom excluder with all surrounding seams sealed.

And It’s Simple

The bats must be allowed to leave, but first the house must be modified so they cannot move to another opening or return through a gap that was missed.

That is complete bat-proofing.

Complete Bat-Proofing and Humane Bat Removal

Technician installing custom bat flashing beneath a soffit on a brick house to stop bat night roosting
Custom bat flashing being installed beneath the soffit to stop big brown bats from night roosting on the exterior of the home.
After photo of roof vents protected with custom bat-proof box screens on an asphalt shingle roof.
After photo showing roof vents protected with custom metal box screens. These screens help keep bats, squirrels, raccoons, and mice from entering through exposed roof vents while still allowing proper airflow.
After photo of chimney flashings that have been screwed down and caulked to seal roofline gaps and keep bats out.
After photo showing chimney flashings secured with screws and sealed with caulking to close roofline gaps and prevent bat entry.
Bat control specialist moving ladders between roof sections to access difficult areas for custom drip edge installation.
Accessing roof-edge defects is often one of the hardest parts of drip edge retrofit work. On multi-level homes, ladders may need to be moved from one roof section to another just to reach the areas where custom flashing must be installed.
Bat excluder being installed by Bat Control Specialists on a soffit gap to let bats leave safely
Bat excluder being installed by Bat Control Specialists over a soffit gap. Properly placed excluders allow bats to leave safely while preventing them from getting back inside.
Custom-fitted metal flashing installed to close a main bat entry opening between the soffit and roof shingles.
Custom metal flashing was fitted over the main opening to permanently close the large gap between the soffit and shingles.
Technician working from a ladder placed on a lower roof to install drip edge on an upper roof section.
Installing drip edge on a completed multi-level roof can be extremely difficult. In this case, the ladder had to be positioned on one roof section to reach another roof edge where custom drip edge was being installed.

Step 1 — Find Where the Bats Are Getting In

The first job is identifying the principal active entry and exit points.

Urine staining and discoloration on stone near the peak of a home where bats were entering between the soffit and brick wall.
On most bat control jobs the entry point will not be so obvious.

This can be much harder than homeowners expect.

Most residential bat problems in Ontario involve big brown bats. They commonly live in small, highly transient groups. They may move between different parts of a house, disappear temporarily and return later. Many homeowners never see bats leaving outdoors. They discover the problem only after bats begin showing up inside.

Droppings, oil staining, worn surfaces and observed nighttime activity may help identify an opening, but none of those clues should be considered in isolation.

The entire roofline must be inspected.

The Three Most Common Bat Entry Areas

Soffit-to-shingle intersections and dormers

Primary bat entry gap where the soffit meets the roof shingles on a Bobcaygeon house
Dormers and other places where one roof meets another are among the most common bat entry areas.


Soffit-to-brick intersections and peaks

Large open gap where the soffit meets the brickwork, creating a potential entry point for bats and mice.
Gaps where soffits meet brick or stonework—especially at gable peaks—frequently provide bats with access.

Chimney flashings and chimney tops

Open clay tile chimney flue before being sealed with sheet metal to prevent bats from entering.
Open clay tile chimney flue before being sealed with sheet metal to prevent bats from entering.
Deteriorating chimney cap with open flue that can allow bats, rats, and other animals to enter
Before photo of a deteriorating chimney with failing concrete around a metal factory chimney liner and an open flue cap. Open chimney areas like this can allow bats, rats, birds, squirrels, and other animals into the structure.
Gap between chimney flashing and brick chimney on a Thornhill Ontario home, marked as a possible bat entry point.
A gap between the chimney flashing and brick chimney on a Thornhill, Ontario home. Openings like this can allow big brown bats to access hidden wall, roof, soffit, or attic spaces.
Massive gap between the chimney flashing, brick chimney, shingles, and roof decking on a Thornhill Ontario home, marked as a bat entry point.
A massive gap between the chimney flashing, brick chimney, shingles, and roof decking on a Thornhill, Ontario home. Openings like this can allow big brown bats to access hidden roof, wall, soffit, and attic spaces.


Loose chimney flashing, unprotected gas liners and deteriorated chimney joints are common bat entry points.

These may be the three most frequent locations, but they are not the only ones.

Bats also enter around siding, fascia, ridge vents, roof vents, additions, porches, skylights, drip edges and other construction intersections.

Every House Has Potential Bat Entry Points

older-house-newer-house-bats-love-both-brantford-area.jpg
All houses regardless of age have many places where bats can get in.

New houses are not bat-proof.

Old houses are not bat-proof.

Houses are built to keep out weather—not bats.

A modern house can contain thousands of small joints, overlaps and construction gaps. Every location where two materials meet creates another place that must be evaluated.

Common potential openings include:

  • Soffits meeting brick, stone or siding
  • Soffits meeting shingles
  • Dormer corners
  • Fascia and drip-edge gaps
  • Chimney flashing
  • Ridge vents
  • Box vents and turbine vents
  • Loose skylight flashing
  • Siding-to-roof intersections
  • Gable peaks
  • Changes in roof elevation
  • Additions and porch connections
Illustrated modern Windsor home showing common bat entry points including chimney gaps, loose fascia, roof vents, gable vents, dormer openings, siding gaps, flashing gaps, and utility chase areas.
Bats require very little room. When a house is not completely bat-proofed, they often move only a few feet from the opening that was blocked and begin using another one.

Step 2 — Bat-Proof the Entire Exterior

This is the part that actually solves the problem.

The secondary and potential entry points must be closed before the bats are excluded from their principal openings.

Depending on the house, complete bat-proofing may require:

  • Professional exterior sealants
  • Foam backer material in deeper joints
  • Custom-bent metal flashing
  • Chimney flashing repairs
  • Gas-liner and chimney-cap screening
  • Ridge-vent screening
  • Roof-vent modifications
  • Mechanical fastening of loose fascia or flashing
  • Repairs around soffits, dormers and roof intersections
  • Screening beneath turbines and other ventilators

The correct repair depends on the structure.

Caulking is useful where caulking belongs. Flashing is required where movement, width or exposure makes caulking inadequate. Roof vents must remain functional. Chimneys must continue venting safely. Different materials expand and contract at different rates.

This is why complete bat-proofing is skilled construction work—not simply wildlife removal.

Large bat entry gap between the soffit and roof shingles with dark staining and bat droppings around the opening.
The main bat entry point was a large opening between the soffit and shingles. Dark staining and droppings confirmed that bats were regularly using the gap.
Custom-fitted metal flashing installed to close a main bat entry opening between the soffit and roof shingles.
Custom metal flashing was fitted over the main opening to permanently close the large gap between the soffit and shingles.
Completed bat-proofing with custom metal flashing and all surrounding seams sealed using PureRoof silicone.
The completed repair: custom metal flashing installed and every surrounding seam and gap sealed with PureRoof silicone.
Exterior gas fireplace vent with bat droppings visible on the vent cap, indicating repeated bat activity.
Bat droppings accumulating on an exterior gas fireplace vent. Standard factory vent caps often contain openings large enough for bats to roost inside or behind the vent assembly.
Gas fireplace vent protected with custom half-inch screening to prevent bats from entering or roosting inside the vent assembly.
Custom half-inch wildlife screen installed over a gas fireplace vent. The screening prevents bats from accessing the vent while maintaining proper airflow and safe fireplace operation.
Massive gap between the chimney flashing, brick chimney, shingles, and roof decking on a Thornhill Ontario home, marked as a bat entry point.
A massive gap between the chimney flashing, brick chimney, shingles, and roof decking on a Thornhill, Ontario home. Openings like this can allow big brown bats to access hidden roof, wall, soffit, and attic spaces.
Chimney flashing screwed down and sealed with PureRoof silicone on a Thornhill Ontario home.After photo of chimney flashing on a Thornhill, Ontario home, screwed down and sealed with PureRoof silicone to close gaps where bats, mice, or other small animals could enter around the roofline.
After photo of chimney flashing on a Thornhill, Ontario home, screwed down and sealed with PureRoof silicone to close gaps where bats, mice, or other small animals could enter around the roofline.
Unprotected roof vent on a Bobcaygeon home before screening against bats
Before bat-proofing, this roof vent had openings that could allow bats to get into the attic.
Bat-proof box screen installed over a roof vent to keep bats out
A properly installed box screen can protect a roof vent from bats while still allowing the vent to function. The screen must be securely fastened, weather-resistant, and sized correctly so bats cannot squeeze through or get underneath it.
Bat droppings under a gas liner cap on top of a chimney.
Bat droppings found under a gas liner cap on a chimney, showing bat activity around the cap and chimney top.
Quarter-inch mesh screen installed on B-vent chimney cap to keep bats out of the metal vent
Quarter-inch mesh has been screwed and caulked into place on this standard B-vent chimney cap to prevent bats from squeezing through the openings and travelling down the metal vent into the basement.
Caulking gaps to keep the bats out of a house in London, Ontario - [ ] By Bat Control Specialists Canadas No1 bat control and bat removal company.
This photo shows soffit lines and chimney-side gaps sealed with exterior caulking, with a bat excluder installed over the main active entry point. The surrounding prevention work is completed first so bats cannot move to nearby openings.
soffit and fascia gap sealed with roof-grade silicone to prevent bats and mice from entering.
After photo showing roof flashing, shingles, and soffit gaps sealed with roof-grade silicone to help prevent bats and mice from getting behind the roofline.
Alt text: Custom bat excluder installed at a soffit and brick corner with surrounding gaps sealed during professional bat-proofing.
Caption: A one-way bat excluder installed at the active opening while nearby soffit and brick gaps are sealed to prevent bats from re-entering.
Near one-inch gap behind soffit J-channel above a window where bats and mice can enter an Ontario home.
A hidden gap behind the soffit J-channel above a window, rough-surface cornice stone, and brick. Openings like this are often hard to see from the ground but are large enough for bats and mice to use.
Foam backer inserted into a large gap between brick and soffit before caulking.
Foam backer being inserted into a large gap between the brick and soffit before the final caulking is applied. Large openings like this need proper backing so the sealant can bond correctly and close the gap.
Bat control technician applying exterior caulking between the soffit and brickwork on a London Ontario home
A Bat Control Specialists technician seals a soffit-to-brick gap as part of complete exterior bat-proofing.
Technician sealing around half-inch screen installed inside a turbine roof vent
The fitted screen was thoroughly sealed around the perimeter so bats could not pass around its edges.
Custom metal bat flashing being caulked beneath a soffit on a London Ontario home
The custom bat flashing was carefully caulked along the soffit to create a clean, continuous seal and prevent bats from getting behind it.
Before photo showing a roof ridge vent area with no bat-proof screen protection before custom ridge vent screens are installed.
Before photo of a ridge vent area with no bat-proof protection. Unprotected ridge vents can allow bats to enter beneath the vent and access the attic or roof system.
After photo of a roof ridge vent fitted with custom bat-proof screens to prevent bats from entering through the ridge vent.
After photo showing a ridge vent fitted with custom bat-proof screens. Ridge vents are common bat entry points when they are left unprotected or start to lift, warp, or separate from the shingles.

Step 3 — Install Humane Bat Excluders

Once the rest of the house has been bat-proofed, the principal active openings are fitted with one-way bat excluders.

Custom aluminum bat excluder installed at the gable peak of a house for humane bat exclusion
A custom aluminum bat excluder installed high at the gable peak of a house. These roofline areas are difficult to access and require a properly fitted excluder so bats can leave safely.

A properly installed excluder allows the bats to leave normally but prevents them from getting back inside.

The order matters:

  1. Identify the principal entry points.
  2. Close the secondary and potential openings.
  3. Leave the active openings temporarily available.
  4. Install professional one-way excluders.
  5. Allow the bats to leave.
  6. Remove the excluders and secure the final openings.

A bat excluder represents roughly one percent of successful bat control.

The other ninety-nine percent is finding and eliminating everything the bats could use after they leave.

Custom black aluminum bat excluder being held before installation, designed to allow bats to exit safely while preventing re-entry.
A custom aluminum bat excluder before installation. These purpose-built excluders are designed for specific bat entry points and are made to allow safe one-way exit during professional bat-proofing.
Custom shorty bat excluder held before installation on a Thornhill Ontario home with a big brown bat problem.
One of our custom shorty bat excluders before installation on a Thornhill, Ontario home. This model is used for specific tight bat entry points where a full-size excluder is not the best fit.
Custom aluminum bat excluders installed at a soffit and roof intersection to allow bats to leave safely
Custom aluminum bat excluders installed at a soffit and roof intersection. These are difficult bat entry points to work on because the opening follows the roofline, shingles, fascia, and soffit at awkward angles.
Box Flashing and Bat Excluder Installed at Soffit Shingle Junction
Box Flashing and Bat Excluder Installed at Soffit Shingle Junction
Alt text: Custom bat excluder installed at a soffit and brick corner with surrounding gaps sealed during professional bat-proofing.
Caption: A one-way bat excluder installed at the active opening while nearby soffit and brick gaps are sealed to prevent bats from re-entering.
Bat excluder installed on a gap between the soffit and brick chimney on a home to allow bats to exit and prevent them from getting back inside.
A bat excluder installed at the gap between the soffit and brick chimney, allowing bats to leave safely while preventing re-entry during the bat-proofing process.


The excluder is installed only after the surrounding secondary and potential entry points have been sealed.

Bat Excluders Are Useless Without Prevention Work

Putting a one-way device over one hole does not bat-proof a house.

Without prevention work, an excluder may accomplish nothing more than forcing the bats to locate another opening nearby.

They will search aggressively for a way back into a familiar roost.

Mesh tubes, loose netting and homemade plastic devices are unreliable. They can collapse, become blocked, be installed in the wrong direction or allow bats to bypass their edges. A poorly installed device can also trap bats inside.

Safe exclusion requires knowing:

  • Which opening is active
  • Which direction the bats travel
  • How the surrounding materials are constructed
  • Whether another opening is connected
  • How to secure the device without creating new gaps
  • When exclusion can legally and humanely occur
  • How long the excluder should remain in place

Exclusion is an art that takes years to learn—but exclusion alone is not the solution.

The solution is complete bat-proofing.

Incomplete approach

Homeowner pointing to a black plastic bat excluder installed at the soffit-to-stone gap near the peak of a house
The homeowner installed a plastic bat excluder over the main opening—but the rest of the house still contains many other potential bat entry points.
Illustration of a homeowner covering his ears while a neighbor points out other bat entry gaps near the roofline after a bat excluder was installed.
Installing a bat excluder over one gap is not enough if the rest of the house has other openings bats can use.


A one-way device installed without complete bat-proofing gives bats other ways back inside.

Alt text: Custom bat excluder installed at a soffit and brick corner with surrounding gaps sealed during professional bat-proofing.

Correct approach


A professional excluder controls the final active opening after the rest of the structure has been secured.

Why Wildlife Companies Fail at Bat Control

General wildlife-control companies are usually set up to handle raccoons, squirrels, skunks, birds and occasional bat calls.

That does not provide the specialization required for complete bat-proofing.

A regional wildlife franchise may claim to have a bat specialist, but do not receive enough complex bat jobs for one technician to develop the necessary inspection and construction skills.

Bat control requires knowledge of:

  • Roof and soffit construction
  • Masonry and siding systems
  • Chimneys and gas liners
  • Roof ventilation
  • Water-shedding details
  • Expansion and contraction
  • Sealant selection and adhesion
  • Sheet-metal fabrication
  • Custom flashing installation
  • Safe work at difficult roof intersections

Most wildlife technicians do not carry a metal brake. They do not fabricate fitted flashings. They do not modify complicated roof vents or chimney systems. They are trained primarily to remove large animals, primarily raccoons, squirrels and skunks—not rebuild the exterior envelope of a house.

Fabricating Custom Drip Edge Flashing for Professional Bat-Proofing
Custom drip edge flashing being fabricated on-site for a bat-proofing project. Many roof-edge defects require custom-made flashing because standard roofing materials often do not fit the unique dimensions of older homes.
Bat control technician working safely on the steep metal roof of a log home in Ontario
A Bat Control Specialists technician completing exterior bat-proofing work on the steep metal roof of an Ontario log home.

Wildlife control companies usually mean well and work hard, but they fail because their business model does not provide the specialization this work demands.

We hear the same complaints continually:

“The wildlife company installed a bat door, but the bats came back.”

“They sealed a few spots, and bats started appearing inside again.”

“We thought the problem was fixed, but it returned two years later.

Gallery of Wildlife Control Work Vs Bat Control Specialist

Wrong

One-inch mesh installed over roof vent that is too large to keep bats out
This one-inch by one-inch mesh is too large for bat-proofing. Bats can squeeze through openings much smaller than most people expect, so roof vents need properly sized screening to keep bats out.

Right

Properly sized half-inch mesh box screen installed over roof vent to keep bats out
This roof vent is protected with a properly sized box screen made from half-inch square mesh. Unlike larger mesh, half-inch screening is small enough to keep bats out while still allowing roof ventilation.

Wrong

Improperly installed one inch mesh over a house opening with gaps large enough for bats to squeeze through
One-inch mesh is too large for bat-proofing, and this mesh was also installed poorly. The openings are more than enough for bats to squeeze through and continue using the gap behind it.

Right

Custom box flashing and aluminum bat excluder installed over a soffit-shingle gap.
Custom box flashing installed over a soffit-shingle gap with one of our aluminum bat excluders on the active exit point. The flashing closes the roofline gap while the excluder allows bats to leave safely.

Wrong

Sharp wire mesh bat exclusion device installed under a roof by a non-specialist wildlife company, creating a dangerous and ineffective bat removal setup.
A sharp, poorly designed wire mesh bat exclusion device installed by a non-specialist wildlife company. Devices like this can injure bats, trap them, or fail to properly solve the entry point problem.

Right

Bat excluder installed at peak of roof entry point on Ontario home
A bat excluder installed at peak of roofto allow bats to leave while preventing them from re-entering the home.

Ain’t No Comparison Between Wildlife Companies And Bat Specialists.

Split image comparing a frightened surgery patient with a family doctor and a wildlife control technician holding a skunk, raccoon, and squirrel to show why bat problems need a specialist.
Just sayin’

A temporary absence of bats does not prove that the house was properly bat-proofed. Big brown bats are transient, and years can pass between indoor appearances.

If openings remain, the problem remains.

Complete Bat-Proofing Is Structural Work

Complete bat-proofing requires understanding how the whole house is assembled.

A technician must know where water drains, where materials overlap, how vents move air and which repairs can be made without damaging the roof or trapping moisture.

Missing one opening can undermine the entire job.

The completed work may include dozens—or hundreds—of individual repairs across the house.

That is why the work takes time. It is also why cheap, quick solutions fail.

Bat Houses, Repellents and Noise Makers Do Not Work

A bat house does not remove bats from your house.

An ultrasonic device does not seal a roofline.

Mothballs do not repair chimney flashing.

Lights do not stop bats from moving through wall cavities.

Sprays do not close soffit gaps.

You are free to spend money trying them. They will not solve the structural problem.

Even sealing several obvious gaps is not enough. Unless the entire exterior is addressed, the bats still have options.

Most homeowners want to believe there is one inexpensive opening that can be covered. That belief is understandable, but it is wrong.

There is no shortcut around complete bat-proofing.

What Complete Bat-Proofing Protects Against

Our primary objective is to keep bats out, but many of the same repairs also reduce access for:

  • Birds
  • Squirrels
  • Raccoons
  • Wasps
  • Larger insects
  • Some mouse entry points

Mice are the most difficult residential animal to exclude completely. They require extremely small openings and can chew through many materials. However, closing major roofline, soffit, flashing and masonry gaps can still reduce mouse access considerably.

Mice also create a greater structural fire risk than bats because mice chew electrical wiring. Bats do not.

The Only Reliable Result

Complete bat-proofing stops bats from:

  • Living in walls and attics
  • Leaving droppings inside structural cavities
  • Breeding inside the house
  • Moving into basements and living spaces
  • Reappearing months or years later
  • Relocating to another unsealed section of the roofline

It is a substantial amount of work.

It is not an exciting way to spend money.

But it is the only reliable way to permanently solve a residential bat problem.

Everything else delays the repair and wastes money.

Use a clean finished photograph of a completely bat-proofed house or roofline.

Complete Bat-Proofing with a Lifetime Warranty

Bat Control Specialists guarantees its complete bat-proofing work.

Provided our completed work is not altered, removed or damaged, the bats should not regain access through the areas we treated.

If we missed something covered by the warranty, we return and correct it.

That is a real warranty on the result—not merely a limited warranty claiming that the original workmanship was acceptable.

Why Our Warranties Are Different.

Complete Bat-Proofing Questions

Can I solve a bat problem by sealing the hole they use?

No. Sealing only the active opening usually causes bats to move to another gap. The secondary and potential openings must be closed before the principal exits are fitted with excluders.

Do bat excluders remove bats humanely?

Yes, when they are correctly installed at the proper time and only after the rest of the house has been bat-proofed. They allow bats to leave but prevent re-entry.

Will a bat house make bats leave my attic?

No. A bat house does not remove bats from walls or attics and does not repair the openings they are using.

Do ultrasonic bat repellents work?

No. Noise makers do not change the structure of the house or close bat entry points.

Can a new house have bats?

Yes. New houses contain many construction joints where soffits, shingles, siding, masonry, flashing and vents meet. New homes are not built to be bat-proof.

Why did bats return after another company installed an excluder?

The rest of the house was probably not completely bat-proofed. The bats may have used another opening, or the original device may have been incorrectly installed.

How much of bat control is exclusion?

The excluder is a small part of the job. Most of the work is inspection, construction repair and prevention.

What species usually live in Ontario houses?

Most residential bat problems involve big brown bats, although little brown bats also use buildings. Both require complete bat-proofing and humane exclusion.

Can bats return years after a poor repair?

Yes. Big brown bats are highly transient. A house may appear quiet for months or years even though usable openings remain.

Is complete bat-proofing guaranteed?

Bat Control Specialists provides a lifetime warranty that the bat problem is fixed on qualifying complete bat-proofing work, provided our work is not altered or damaged.

Learn Why Most Bat Warranties Are Scams (Not Ours)

Need Complete Bat-Proofing?

Bat Control Specialists does not chase individual bats around rooms or install a one-way device over one convenient hole.

We solve the structural problem.

We identify the active entry points, bat-proof the exterior, modify vents and chimneys, fabricate custom flashings, install professional excluders and prevent the bats from finding another way back inside.

For A Free Estimate

Fast, humane, guaranteed bat removal. Serving Ontario & parts of Quebec

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